The Good Model Guide

This is a summary of terrific advice offered after a very good question was posed on a Net-Model forum – “What does a model needs to know and how should they comport themselves in order to be a successful Model?”

The replies came from models, photographers and make-up artists around the world, and as a summary of good practice takes a bit of beating. All credit to those that contributed, and to the photographer that asked the blindingly obvious but incisive & fundamental question in the first place! I apologise in advance if any of those that contributed object to me using their pearls of wisdom - let me know, & I'll amend the list.

Wardrobe - make sure everything is clean and in good condition

Underwear

Black & White (simple set and something with detail) make sure they are PLAIN as detailed lingerie will be obvious underneath tops, skirts, dresses etc….

Pink, blue, yellow, orange (whatever suits colour wise - if you're really pale skinned, white won't look as good as when you have a tan) lacy, patterned, vest & pants sets.

At least 2 lingerie sets e.g. the ones you buy, but rarely wear as they are for “special occasions”. 

Suspender belts in various colours - but if all else fails, get a black one as that will go with everything black you have.

Stockings - fishnets in various hole sizes, plain, hold-ups and ones that can be attached to suspender belts. Ensure these are free from holes or ladders BEFORE packing away - and keep them in a small plastic bag so they don't get caught on bra hooks/shoe heels.

Make sure your lingerie is ALWAYS in a matching set. Loop the bra hook through the knickers and then close the fastening - voila! you never lose the matching pants!

Outerwear

L.B.D - Little Black Dress - it can be dressed up or down.

Dark jeans. Light jeans.

Plain white t-shirt. Plain black vest top and t-shirt.

Casual fashion set. (Jeans, white/black shirt, other casual tops). High fashion set. (High fashion trousers, cropped trousers, shorts.

Tops to match the bottoms e.g. embroidered or detailed).

Footwear

Boots.

Black killer heels.

Plain white heels.

Flat casual shoes.

Wedges.

Any other shoes that you accompany with specific outfits. (Make sure footwear is clean & polished & labels are removed from soles).

Jewellery & Accessories

Beads, pearls, necklaces, bracelets, bangles, rings, earrings.

Hair accessories, slides, clips, headbands etc….

Belts, chain belts.

Any other items/props.

Also cut tags out of garments especially lingerie.

It is wise to bring extras...you never know if you will need them.

Have a bag or holdall of items which may come in handy - plasters, headache pills, brush, comb, make up, hairspray, make up remover, hair accessories, safety pins, water, passport & driving license (Proof of Age/ID), pen.

Bring a nail file, nail glue (if using falsies on your nails). Nail polish remover and clear varnish.

Make-up

The better you are at doing make-up and hair, the more work you will get. Not everyone has the budget for a MUA, so you can make yourself more saleable by getting good at make-up. Remember, in general your make-up needs to be much stronger for photography than if you are just going out on the weekend.

Take all make up and apply when you know the styles of photos that you want to achieve.

If you are doing your own make sure you have a really good foundation which matches your skin colour and when applying put more on then you think you need or you would wear normally - this really does make a difference when you are in front of hot lights and cameras that pick up every little blemish. Loads of powder will stop you going shiny.

Same applies to blusher/bronzer- you need more then you think as flash blows out colour in your face! 

Be sure to have any hair removal treatments at least 24 hours before the shoot. This will ensure that any redness or swelling has subsided.

NO FAKE TAN - it’s streaky, orange, dull and it smells. Makeup can’t cover it properly. It's not just MUA's that hate fake tan, so do a lot of photographers. Photoshopping a bad fake tan is a nightmare and what seems ok in your bedroom can be anything but once zapped by a couple of thousand Joules of studio flash. Either do it properly with a sun bed or don't bother.

Don’t over-pluck your eyebrows! Brows should be arched, fuller at the front and taper to a clean point. They should not look like skinny tadpoles.

Get a good night’s sleep before a shoot. It is possible to cover under eye circles but the darker they are the harder it is and skin looks better after a good sleep.

If you use an MUA on your shoots, take along your own make-up as well, in case you forget to tell them you have any allergies eg. Lanolin. Also most MUA’s are happy to share tips on how to use the full content of your make-up bag.

Exfoliate thoroughly the morning of your shoot and smother yourself in moisturiser and body lotion.

That includes your lips! Flaky skin is the hardest thing to overcome, more so than spots. On that note, don’t pick your spots or squeeze them, they are easier to cover and Photoshop out if they are left smooth.

No tacky out grown hair extensions - if you must have them keep them looking good and well groomed.

Drink lots of water in the lead up to shoots it plumps out your skin and makes your complexion glow.

Take face wipes with you, which are quicker and easier for removing make-up/smudges. Good if you've got make-up changes or smudge your mascara.

When applying make-up, use a slightly darker colour below your cheekbones, and highlight at the top. This will accentuate your cheek bones, so they pop out. Exaggerate them a bit too, because heavy lights make you look more washed out.

Take a dressing gown or old top & bottoms set to wear. This is for set/make-up changes, to avoid marking your garments.

Communication & Planning

Do not hide the fact you will be doing a photo shoot on a particular day from your parents/boyfriend. Always let them know of your modelling activities.

If you do have a folio bring it to show the photographer so they can get a good idea of how you photograph and pose.

If you are not sure about how to get to the shoot location always leave a bit earlier to give you time to get there in time etc. Ask the photographer/client if they can give you a photocopy of the location on the map with the location clearly marked.

Ask the photographer for a detailed job description outlining what will be required of you and what will be required of the photographer.

Don't be afraid to ask questions no matter how trivial you think the question/s might be.

Regarding chaperones, if this is raised by yourself and the photographer/client states no chaperones are allowed on the shoot once it starts then don't try and argue the point at all, either accept their conditions or don't accept the assignment. Just remember that it might not always be the photographer who lays down the conditions in regards to not wanting chaperones, he/she may just be following instructions from the client. 

If you do wish to use a hotmail account, try and give yourself a respectable name, names like " hot4sexchick@hotmail.com " will really say a lot about you and probably put off any genuine potential offers of work.

Make sure you have discussed thoroughly with the photographer what you may need to bring to the shoot.

Do not use text speech in emails or on the forums. There is a place for it with friends or people you know, but not when you are seeking work.

Make sure you respond to all genuine enquiries in a timely manner. If you are not interested in an offer, that's fine. Explain politely why and move on. Serious photographers will respect your reasons and may even come back with a more acceptable offer.

Make sure that the photographer understands clearly what you mean when agreeing to work, in terms of personal limits and what you will or will not be supplying in the form of clothes, makeup etc. Avoid terms like 'implied' if you can, or at least clarify, e.g. 'happy to go topless provided nipples are not on show'.

If you have particular requirements such as bringing along a chaperone or not permitting images to be used in specific situations make sure you raise this early so as not to waste the photographer's time. Be prepared to accept that some photographers will not agree to such terms.

Be organized!

- reply to all email even if to say not interested

- prompt email responses

- be on time

- good hygiene

- be respectful of others and yourself

- other models are co-workers, not competition

- don’t bad mouth anyone

- have fun but be professional at all times

- always be willing to learn new things

- know your limits

- plan your shoots wisely

- come prepared to all shoots with more than you think you will need

- remember those who have helped you.

No nasty surprises, please:--

If there have been any changes to your personal appearance make sure this is noted in your folio, for example, you change the colour of your hair or your hair is shorter/longer or you have lost or gained weight.

- If you have any tattoo's, stretch marks, scars, war wounds or pubic hair down to your knees, that can't be seen in your portfolio, but will be seen by the photographer you plan to work with... please let him/her know in advance.

Get full details of what the shoot entails in writing before the shoot from the photographer. That way all details are in one single e-mail and laid down in black & white. If anything is unclear or ambiguous ask for clarification.

At the very least make sure that the following have been stated and agreed:

- Day & Date

- Time

-Location

- Payment - Is it paid or TFP(/CD)? Are you being paid by the hour or a fixed sum for certain duration? How much are being paid? How many prints do you receive? When will you get them? What size will they be?

- Travel Expenses - Are they to be covered as an extra payment?

- Levels - Specify this in writing and if necessary define it (very important if working to an 'implied' level.

- Shoot plans & ideas - Helps you to know what you are likely to need to bring.

Never underestimate the importance of good communication. Reply to every e-mail so the photographer knows you've received it and answer any questions asked. If you haven't got time for a complete reply at least acknowledge you received it and will answer fully within a specified time.

If you have moved to another city/town, make sure this is indicated on your online folio so as not to confuse any photographers that may want to contact you for work or photographers who have already worked with you thinking that you still reside in the same area.

Do not turn up with grazes, bruises, crop marks (yes it has happened) or cold sores without giving prior warning so the tog can either re-plan the shoot content or find another model.

Heavily related to the last point, say "Well you can Photoshop it out ..." this is equivalent to saying I do not give a **** what I am delivering.

If specific clothing has been agreed - BRING IT, preferably in a crease free condition.

Be punctual – you don’t want photographers deducting lost studio time from the agreed rate.

Regard what you are doing as a profession with the tog being either a collaborator or more likely a paying customer!

If the CUSTOMER asks for confirmation - respond within a reasonable time frame - or expect your income earning slots to go to more customer orientated providers.

If contacting a photographer who you'd like to work with be clear about what you're looking for. State whether you want paid work or TFP, you have every right to ask for either and it avoids any potential embarrassment or offence when the photographer offers the wrong one. If you're seeking paid work including rates is helpful as it allows us photographers to know if we can afford you or plan our shooting budgets.

Do not go out on the town the night before a shoot if you have to get up very early in the morning. There are too many stories of models arriving at a shoot under the weather or not arrive at all due to being intoxicated.

If it is going to be a glamour or art nude session make sure that you do not wear anything to the shoot that is going to leave marks.

When approaching a photographer that you would like to work with, try and keep your e-mail formal at the start like writing " Dear Sir or Hello Peter" if you happen to know their names, but don't write " Hi there or How are ya?"

Copyright, TFCD & Payment

It is extremely important that, as a model, you should fully understand the implications of the term copyright to avoid both embarrassment and the prospect of litigation.

Copyright in this context is simply the RIGHT to allow a COPY of a photograph to be created. The creation of a copy of any photograph without the copyright holder’s permission is illegal. By default the copyright holder of ANY photograph is the PHOTOGRAPHER (or his employer if in paid employment as a photographer).

This remains the case EVEN WHERE THE PHOTOGRAPHER HAS BEEN PAID BY THE MODEL or another third party to take the images. Unless a model has the permission of the photographer it is illegal to create any further copies of those images.

This means that should you wish to use any photographs taken of yourself you WILL require the permission of the photographer first. For example the fact that a photographer has emailed you a few images after a shoot does not permit you to copy them to an online portfolio or send them to a magazine.

It follows that should you enter an agreement with a photographer where for example you have waived or reduced your fees for the right to use some of the images yourself, that you ensure the photographer has given you that permission in writing and that the permission covers all the situations where you wish to use those pictures.

In some Countries such as the USA a model can claim rights to their own image. This is not currently the case in the UK or many EU countries. A photographer can therefore, as the copyright holder, permit the use of any photograph he takes without needing the permission of the model as long as he does not in the process breach other laws such as defamation.

A PHOTOGRAPHER DOES NOT NEED A 'MODEL RELEASE' IN ORDER TO PUBLISH A PHOTO IN THE UK

A TFP or TFCD shoot is where rather than one side or the other expecting payment the photographer and model agree to waive the normal fee for an arrangement where the model is provided with prints or images on a CD in exchange for the time spend modelling. For a new model the advantages and disadvantages are:

Advantages:

1) It can be a way of getting some professional images to kick start a portfolio without the (considerable) cost of hiring a suitable photographer

2) It provides a means of building a reputation and making contacts for someone with no previous track record.

3) It provides an opportunity to develop your modelling skills without the pressure involved in a paid shoot where you would be expected to produce professional results.

4) It provides more scope to try out your own ideas or different styles as these are generally collaborative ventures where both sides are expected to contribute to the results.

Disadvantages:

1) Once you have developed a reputation for doing TFP/TFCD it can be difficult to move on to paid work as many photographers see no reason to pay for something another got free!

2) There are still costs involved such as travel, make up, building a wardrobe etc. but remember, this is true for the photographer too.

3) The results may not be what you hoped. This could through poor photography, you lack of modelling experience or simply that the chemistry was not right between model and photographer.

4) Regrettably there are photographers who will abuse this sort of set up by not providing the promised images, not having the skills they profess to, or seeking to take advantage of your inexperience by getting you to work beyond the levels you feel comfortable at.

DONT ADVERTISE FOR TFP/TFCD

Not only is this advertising that you are prepared to work for 'free' but the result will be hundreds of replies from photographers of varying aptitudes all of whom will expect an answer and feel offended if it is a ‘no’. Watch the forums, do a search of photographers that are near you and make use of the private modelling marketing strategies forum to create a list of photographers who you would like to work with, then approach them individually.

KNOW WHAT YOU WANT OUT OF IT

There is no point just doing shoot after shoot and accumulating photos for the sake of it. Decide what images you actually need or what style of modelling you need to build up more experience in then concentrate on the shots that will achieve your aims.

GET A WRITTEN AGREEMENT

This should be at least an email confirming everything discussed from the photographer, though a letter signed by both sides is preferable. You need to ensure the following is clear.

:a) The quantity and quality of the images you will receive.

b) When and how you will receive your copies of the images.

c) Clarification of how you may use the copies provided to you and any restrictions by the photographer.

d) Confirmation by the photographer of any agreement that limits the use he may make of the images.

e) Any costs either party has agreed to pay - e.g. MUA, Studio, Travel etc.

PREPARE FOR DISAPOINTMENTS

Shit happens, it’s a fact of life. Your seemingly lovely make up may fall apart under powerful studio lighting, the photographer may accidentally change a vital setting on his camera and mess up the shots you were looking forward to most. You will almost certainly discover all the poses that make your thighs fat and your eyes appear as if you spent the last few nights clubbing. (Chances are the photographer will bin them, but actually from the model’s point of view these are probably the most instructive.)

There is no such thing as a freebie. Time for CD means a lot of work for a photographer. Having 2 or 3 web cam/mobile phone pictures in your portfolio does not mean you are ready for or should demand paid work.

If you do contact a photographer that you wish to work with, then don't insult him/her with the proverbial " I really like your work and would like to upgrade my portfolio, these are my rates that I want you to pay me for upgrading my folio ".

If you have been contacted by a photographer for a paid assignment and you have asked if any prints are included, don't keep asking if you have already been told no by the photographer.

Portfolio & Promotion

If possible have a nice headshot as your main image.

For beginners, buy some magazines related to the type of modelling you want to do and study the photographs. For glamour: FHM, Arena GQ. For fashion, Cosmopolitan. For top shelf, take your pick from the glossy Paul Raymond ones.

Pick out the poses in them and practice in front of a mirror. If you have a good friend who you aren't shy in front of, re-enact the poses in front of them and get their opinions - all poses don't suit all faces and bodies.

When registering on a model/photography website (see Links):-

1) Make sure you tick all the terms that may apply to work you will consider. These are used by the search engine. Don’t tick those levels that you aren’t prepared to do, and make sure you understand the definitions in the first place!

2) Do not put in fake or blank responses to where you live. Photographers use this information to find models near them or near where they plan a shoot. If you are worried that you live in a small village that may not get searched for then fine, use the nearest large town but put a comment in your portfolio to this effect.

3) Fill out your stats accurately. NEVER put down you are a size ten when you are in fact a twelve or sneak an inch or so on your height. Some shoots have very specific requirements. A photographer may for example have purchased a dress or costume for the shoot. Wrong information will waste both of you your time and cause ill will.

3) Fill out your stats accurately. NEVER put down you are a size ten when you are in fact a twelve or sneak an inch or so on your height. Some shoots have very specific requirements. A photographer may for example have purchased a dress or costume for the shoot. Wrong information will waste both of you your time and cause ill will.

4) Photographs should do two things: Illustrate the style of work you undertake and provide the photographer a visual idea of your looks and build. At least one good portrait and one full length image that shows your figure should be included. Try to avoid web cam/phone pictures if you can. Should you have no choice get rid of them as quickly as possible. Portfolios that have been online months but still have such images tell the photographer the model is not taking their modelling seriously.

5) List any scars tattoos or piercings including both size and location. It is better to lose a chance through honesty than face the wrath of a photographer given a last minute choice of cancellation or photoshopping several hundred images.

6) Resist the temptation to add comments like 'I don't do adult work/TFP/ so don't even ask!' It's rude, will not make any difference to those who do ask and will put off legitimate enquiries from photographers who may see this as an indication you are touchy on the subject and could take something the wrong way during a shoot or enquiry. There are of course polite ways of stating the same thing.

7) Take the time to provide a little information about yourself – e.g. what styles of work you are interested in most, special skills that maybe relevant. Clarify what you mean in terms of levels- e.g. 'I am prepared to work up to nude provided no pubes are visible in the final image' rather than just implied nude or art nude. If you only work with a chaperone make this clear (but politely) as some photographers will not accept chaperones.

8) Other things you may consider adding are models and photographers you have worked with, magazines where published, hobbies or interests, future work.

9) NEVER leave the additional info box empty. It suggests laziness and a lack of real dedication. Yes you will see some models doing this who are obvious pros, judging by their images however, for these models, sites like this are just a place to point prospective clients to images rather than a means of obtaining work directly.

When using websites to promote your services:-

 -Read what is sent in emails and forum posts. Too many times adverts posted asking for a 5'9" blonde, get replies from a 5’ Brunette ! so READ THE REQUIREMENTS - don't waste everybody’s time.

-Don't read between the lines in emails and posts. Too often people read things in totally the wrong sense, get offended and start arguing. If something appears to be rude or negative, read it again and try and think of it being said with a positive or humorous tone. Too many fights start because of people reading things into message that weren't intended.

- Get a mobile phone, charge it EVERY night, and keep it with you. Be prepared to give the number out. It's just a mobile, if some weirdo gets your number, you can always change it easily.

- ( SARCASM ON ) If you have any relatives or friends who are feeling a bit ill, don't book a shoot until they are well again. They will surely become seriously ill. If you have any pets, take them straight to vets and have them put to sleep on the day you start modelling. If you have a car, get the best AA cover you can afford because it is going to start breaking down twice a week. If you can't drive or don't have a car, learn to drive and get one because suddenly public transport will become completely impossible to use. (SARCASM OFF) Really just be honest and try to be reliable.

During & After the Shoot

During a shoot, turn your mobile to silent, so it does not distract you or the photographer.

Wear loose clothing to a shoot. Any clothing which is even slightly tight can leave lines on your skin that will take a couple of hours to fade Take more rather than less, even to art nude shoots. Open your suitcase, and lay out your clothes, accessories and props, so the photographer can see what you have. More often than not, the photographer will be drawn to something you put in at the last minute.

Go to a shoot with limited make up on.

Communicate well with the photographer during your shoot...make sure you are happy with how things are going, and if not, then be prepared to say, rather than waiting until you see images of something you don’t like.

If you are using a chaperone, make sure the photographer knows before hand, and has agreed where the chaperone will be during the shoot itself.

Make sure whoever you use as a chaperone will not interfere (unless asked for advice) with the shoot - e.g. tell the photographer how totake photos, or becomes a jealous boyfriend.

Make sure the photographer and chaperone (if you have one) know your levels.

If you have a chaperone, have a special 'word' for when things may be going wrong, so that you both know you want to end the shoot but feel unable to talk to the photographer.

After the shoot, give feedback to the photographer - let him / her know which images you like or don't - most photographers would hope that you are pleased with the images (even if it is paid) & most have pride in what they have achieved. If they add an image to their portfolio which you do not like, tell them why and they may remove it. Keep in contact after a shoot...you never know how that might help you in the future.

Personal Safety (see also Safety)

Leave a contact, name, address and phone number (if possible) of where your shoot is taking place with a family member or friend.

Check and leave references within the photographers reference forum...it is there to help.

Life involves a degree of risk indeed many people deliberately seek risk out. In truth most models probably put themselves in more danger getting legless on a Friday night out with friends than through going to a shoot. That does not mean one should not take sensible precautions however.

1) Find out all you can about the photographer and proposed location. Talk to other models they have worked with, check addresses on one of the online map portals. Do a search on recent posts by or about them If the photographer is picking you up from the station make sure you have his car registration number in advance. If the location is a Hotel make sure you have the booking details so you can ring before you go and check it is genuine and the room has been paid for. Secluded location shots are probably best kept for a later session after you have got to know the photographer a little.

2) Let someone know where you are going, how, and what time you intend getting back. If you do not have family or friends you feel comfortable about telling then buddy up with another model. Make sure you do let them know about any last minute changes however!

3) Arrange to phone or text someone at specific times, perhaps when you are due to arrive at the station or just after the shoot is due to be finished and have a safe word you can send or use if there are real problems.

4) Some phone companies now provide live online tracking of mobile phones as and extra service.

5) Always make sure to get the number of a taxi company at the other end if you are being picked up so you are not reliant on being taken back to the station by the photographer if something goes sour.

6) buy a cheap pay as you go mobile that you use only for modelling and never let it run out of credit. Not only does this help keep business and social life separate but should you collect some crank all you need do is dump the sim and fit a new one.

7) Remember that if the offer seems too good to refuse refusing is probably the wisest move to make. Genuine photographers and agencies NEVER offer unknown models big contracts out of the blue, especially via email!

8) If you feel the need for a chaperon on your shoots make sure the photographer is aware of this and clarify what conditions they have. Some photographers insist the Chaperones stays outside, others just that they remain outside the studio area A few will seize on them gleefully as slave labour! No photographer will tolerate a chaperon interfering with the shoot in any way however, so make sure the person you choose is trustworthy sensible and understands this as you WILL be blamed for any misconduct by your chaperon. Jealous boyfriends seeking to control shoots are a sure fire way of having your career wrecked before it even gets started. Generally a female chaperon will be less of a problem.

Above all USE YOUR COMMON SENSE! - if an offer does not feel right politely pass it over.

 

 

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